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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.